Peru,
Jun 12, 2002.- As the afternoon moved toward
its end on that Monday, May 20, an icy wind
whispered in our ears that we were in Kasani,
the border area between Bolivia and Peru. Our
agendas stated that Peru was the fifth country
to be visited in our tour of the Andean
Community (CAN).
We knew that we had a trip of more than a
hundred kilometers of travel ahead of us to
reach Puno, from where we would be going on to
Cusco in search of an encounter with the Manu
National Park. But before that, the sun wished
to make us witnesses to the sacred ritual of
beaming its last rays before Lake Titicaca,
announcing the end of that day. Our final
adventure had started!
As the bus taking us to Puno advanced, our
sights rested on an array of villages that
have their own histories and traditions, on
landscapes of valleys golden with barley,
interspersed with herds of sheep and cattle.
As the moon prepared to bathe this Andean
region of Peru in its light, time allowed us
to get acquainted with Pomata, Puno’s first
town. We were able to witness the beauty of
its sixteenth and seventeenth century Santiago
Apóstol Church, built of pink granite in a
mestizo baroque style. With our last sip of
coffee on this Puno night, our thoughts fixed
on the fact that we would be leaving for Cusco
at 6:00 a.m. the next morning.
At around 3:45 p.m. we arrived in
Huancarani in the Province of Paucartambo
(Cusco). A three and a half hour journey
remained from that point to the opening to the
Manu Park. Hugo Pepper, Manager of the Caimán
Manu specialized tourist agency, went ahead as
we transferred to another vehicle.
But what we had not been told about was the
awesome cultural experience for any common
human of travelling the Sacred Valley of the
Incas, located 32 kilometers north of the city
of Cusco at 3 850 meters above sea level.
Through the windows of our vehicle, we were
able to see, on one side, huge mountains
rising upwards and, on the other, almost
bottomless depths sheltering landscapes filled
with traditions that invited one to stitch
together untold stories.
The silent trip that had turned into a
factory churning out thoughts that transported
us back to time immemorial, was interrupted by
the cry of Leónidas Quiñones, the Manu
National Park naturalist guide, calling us to
"stop and look up at the chullpas!
In effect, gathered on the top of a
mountain located at 3 750 masl were more than
14 Ninamarca chullpas (pre-Inca tombs)
built between 1150 and 1250 from paja
brava, a native grass, and earth. They
stand in the heart of this Sacred Valley as
mute witnesses to the Lupasa culture that
sprang up north of Lake Titicaca. Still under
the spell of our cultural contact with the
Ninamarca chullpas, we reached the
Acjanaco Abra, situated at 3 530 masl,
practically in the foothills of the Manu
National Park. One of Peru’s natural relics,
it covers over 1.5 million hectares and enjoys
an average temperature of 18 degrees
centigrade.
Which would you prefer, Llama Trek or
mountain bicycling? was the question that hung
in the air for a few seconds, leading a group
of the team of journalists to move off in
search of the tourist product called Llama
Trek, which is a ride in a cart pulled by one
or two camelids, while the rest chose mountain
cycling.
As we entered the route leading to the Manu
Park, we found ourselves suddenly enveloped in
clouds that floated down to rest in the zone
known as the Cloud Forest, where they gave the
impression of joining in an eternal embrace
with the gigantic mountains. They were real!
The clouds caressed the windows of the bus
taking us to San Pedro in the foothills of the
Manu, the world’s natural lungs that enfold
a wealth of fauna and flora. Two lodges and
four camps in the area are dedicated to
tourism, the "industry without a
smokestack."
Our watches read 8:00 p.m., showing once
again that time does not stop. Even so, the
feel of a gentle drizzle, combined with the
sound of the natural cascade at the Manu
Nature Tours lodge to dispel any feeling of
tiredness caused by our 14-hour bus trip from
Bolivian territory.
The next day, after visiting the lodges and
inns in San Pedro, near midday, our throats
tight with emotion, we boarded two inflatable
boats. In less than two minutes, we were
soaked by the waters of the Osñipata River,
leading us to cling with teeth and nails to
the vessels as we started our canoeing
adventure (sailing a river in an inflatable
boat).
Oars in hand, we confronted waves, which
elicited our best efforts to move ahead.
Without letting up, we rowed for almost an
hour until we reached Atalaya Port, the entry
to the town of Pilcopata. There, the Queros
and Huacaria native communities showed us how
they are becoming a part of the region’s
ecotourism.
After moving through the enchantment of the
Manu National Park, witnessing the morning
rituals of the gallitos de las rocas,
entering into contact with nature –in short,
taking one of the most thrilling ecotours--,
the time had come for our inevitable return.
Leaving behind the cloud forest was like
leaving the very entrails of the sky, in whose
clouds we savored a veritable cocktail of
unforgettable adventures.
Another of the favorite tourist sites,
visited because of its wealth of different
handicrafts, is Pisac, located only 33
kilometers from Cusco. We also inhaled Inca
history at its purest on entering the
Saqsaywaman archeological park, whose tourist
sites include the staggered walls, religious
sector, Inca cemetery and esplanade for the
staging of the Inti Raymi.
In the epilogue to our return, the rumble
of the bus taking us to Cusco seemed to be
engulfed in a silence of complicity in having
shared 20 days filled with unexpected and
unforgettable experiences.
We eight journalists from the Andean
Community (CAN) were about to see the end to
our privilege of savoring a small portion of
the magic of each Member Country (Venezuela,
Colombia, Ecuador, Bolivia and Peru) willing
to show the world its ecotourist wealth and to
tell us its history in a thousand and one
ways.