The
altiplano city of Puno, on the banks of the
Titicaca Lake (3,870 masl) becomes the folkloric
capital of America for 18 days. It gathers more
than 200 bands of musicians and dancers to
celebrate the Mamacha Candelaria.
The
stewards (those in charge of conducting the
celebrations) prepare the temple and masses,
banquets and fireworks are held during the first
nine days. On the main day, February 2, the
Virgin is taken throughout the city in a
colorful procession, and is followed, in strict
hierarchical order, by priests, acolytes,
faithful, Christians and pagans; this is the
time for the bands of musicians and dancers who
dance throughout the city.
The
festivity is associated with the pre-hispanic
agricultural cycles of sowing and harvesting, as
well as the mining activity of the region, and
it results from the combination of the
respectful aymara cheerfulness and the ancestral
quechua seriousness. The dance of the devils or
“diablada”, supposedly dreamed by some miners
who were caught up in a gallery and in their
desperation prayed to the Virgin Candelaria, is
the main folkloric group of dancers.
The
dancers make offerings to the land (“Pachamama”)
playing the zampoñas (reed flute or pipe),
dressed up in very colorful disguises, usually
wearing masks. The most impressive masks,
because of their terrifying effect, are those of
deers with twisted long horns associated with
the demon, and also the Jacancho or god of
minerals. During the cacharpari or farewell, the
groups of dancers that fill up the streets
finally go to the cemetery to pay homage to
their dead.
Place: Puno
Date: February 2 (main day)